BRAD DYE: Take me home country roads…or at least to lunch
Published 4:46 pm Wednesday, January 18, 2023
- Decor and ambiance are two things to consider when choosing a back roads diner or country store during your outdoor adventures. Old tools, taxidermy and burlap potato sacks are all sure signs that you made a wise choice.
I’m a back roads kind of guy, always have been, always will be. The small place where I grew up, although it did have “town” in the name, is actually classified by Wikipedia as an “unincorporated community.”
Writer Chris Offutt described his hometown as “a zip code with a creek.” I could almost say the same of my little hamlet of origin as it certainly checked the box for having a creek, however the zip code actually belonged to nearby Blue Springs, where my post office was located.
There are many out there that look down their noses at the back road bourgs of the world. What could these Podunk outposts have to offer? Who would live here and, more importantly, why would I stop here?
For me, that list of “whys” is a long one and it starts with the people, the kind of people that your grandmother would have called salt of the earth folks. In all fairness, having lived in the big city (Meridian) for 26 years of my life, I can attest that these types of folks exist there as well.
However, it was a question last week from a reader that started me thinking about the rural life. “Have you ever thought about doing an article about those little, small town stores and restaurants that are tucked away down the back roads?”
It seems that, like me, the reader (we’ll call him Brad) grew up hunting and fishing and enjoyed a meal or two at the fine dining establishment known as the country store or backwoods diner. For clarification, in case you’ve never experienced the gustatory glee of eating in such places, sometimes they are combined into one.
Just about every whistle-stop has one and, usually, it’s worth it to stop in and check it out, especially around the three key times of breakfast, lunch and supper (dinner is way too formal). If you are unfamiliar with these venues and pondering how to make the decision to stop or just eat the stale pack of nabs in your console and keep driving, here’s clue number one—trucks.
If the establishment has several trucks in the parking lot at mealtime, pull in and put it in park. Locals know the best places to eat and multiple vehicles are always a good sign.
Other telltale signs that you’re in the right place are as follows. If you walk in and immediately see a man or woman cooking behind the counter on a well-seasoned flat top griddle, grab a seat or get in line. Also, if while you’re in line, you notice faded pictures on the walls of men and women posing with various fish and other game animals (extra credit given for real taxidermy), you made a wise choice.
A few other markers for back roads dining success are, in no certain order, hoop cheese, displays that include well-worn mule harnesses or oxen yokes (these were probably actually for sale at one time, now they’re part of the décor), a corner table filled with elderly gentlemen (i.e. old men) drinking coffee, and racks of various and sundry items ranging from PVC pipe fittings and fuses to hairnets and local honey.
Still not confident in your ability to choose the right spot to satisfy your hunger when you are off the beaten path? I suggest starting out locally in order to hone your skills. In fact, start within your county and branch out from there. This should help build your confidence. If you’re still uncertain, here’s a shortcut: Stafford Shurden’s Gas Station Tailgate Review.
Shurden is a farmer, restaurant owner, and former Justice Court Judge who hails from the metropolis of Drew, MS. He has a large social media presence and can be found on Facebook, Instagram and YouTube (you can also access his reviews via Google search).
He travels the back roads and byways of Mississippi (as well as surrounding states) reviewing, from his tailgate, the culinary craft of the country and convenience store chefs he encounters along the way.
I knew that we were kindred spirits after watching his review of the cheeseburger from Acy’s. The small country store near Blackhawk, MS, is nestled high on the hills overlooking the Mississippi Delta just outside of Greenwood, MS. It features the “well-seasoned” flattop griddle that I mentioned earlier and from that griddle comes one of the best cheeseburgers to ever cross my lips.
Many an “Acy burger” was consumed during my time spent at a duck lease we had near Sidon, MS, when the kids were small. Thinking about them now makes my mouth water! On a more local note, Shurden has reviews featuring, among others, Kewanee One Stop and Seafood Express (both of which are personal favorites).
As part of my research for this article, I stopped into my favorite local lunch counter, Peterson’s Country Store, to pick up lunch for Gena and myself on Monday. It’s the best ham (or bologna) and cheese sandwich in the Betheden community and it checks all the boxes that I listed above.
The trip to Peterson’s was also a wonderful reminder of the treasures that exist just up the road (or back road) if we’ll only look. Until next time, here’s to seeing you out there (maybe at the lunch counter) in our great outdoors.
Email outdoors columnist Brad Dye at braddye@comcast.net.