special to The Star



The president of one of Napa Valley’s most prestigious wineries, Bryan del Bondio, returns to Meridian this month to lead the February 28th wine tasting at Northwood Country Club. Del Bondio will lend insight to the entire Markham portfolio as area wine lovers sample the 2003 Cabernet, 2004 Merlot, 2006 Sauvignon Blanc, 2003 Petite Sirah, 2005 Chardonnay, and the 2001 Reserve Merlot.

The Markham selections come from a company that traces its history in Napa back to 1874 and an immigrant from Bordeaux, France, Jean Laurent. Today, the winery is owned corporately (the Mercian Corporation), and has benefited from a multi-million dollar renovation and expansion. The Markham facilities, located in St Helena almost directly across the street from the old Christian Brothers Winery (now the impressive home of the west coast branch of the Culinary Institute of America and its Center for Professional Wine Studies), are among the premier of the Napa region. There are beautiful grounds, visitor center, tasting room, art gallery and gift shop.

Del Bondio will bring with him not only a tremendous knowledge of the wine industry, but a great story of the American Dream. He’s very much the “local boy” in Napa Valley. His parents were winery workers, his father putting in 45 years at Inglenook; his mother 40 years. Del Bondio can remember riding his bike up and down Highway 29 to play with friends, some the children of vineyard workers, others more privileged such as Sophia Coppola, whose father, the great motions producer is now heavily involved in the wine business.

Markham wines have been warmly received at previous Northwood tastings lead by del Bondio. And while we all have our favorites, many who are anticipating the upcoming tasting are perhaps looking most forward to the new Petite Sirah. Del Bondio describes that wine as Markham’s deepest, richest red. “Don’t be fooled by the name,” says del Bondio, “There’s nothing “petite” about this wine.” The Petite Sirah grape does indeed produce very dark, chewy wines. Hold a glass of Markham Petite Sirah up in front of a white background and you’ll get no hint of transparency. Swirl vigorously and sniff. The nose is powerful. Taste, and you’ll feel certain that this grape can be no relative to the grape so popularized in Australia…the Sirah. And you’d be just about right. The grapes are only very distant cousins, with the Petite Sirah producing much more powerful wine. Petite Sirahs have not caught the attention they deserve in the deep south, but in California, they are highly regarded, and Markham has built a reputation for doing them very well.

The Northwood tastings are open to the public. To make a reservation, call 601-485-4491. This month’s tasting is Thursday night, February 28th, 6:30 p.m. The cost is $50 per person with small bites of food served with each wine selection.